If you’re a beer lover (and if you’re reading this, then the odds are in your favor), then the arrival of September is a bittersweet time. While it harkens the end of great weather and fine outdoor living for another 9 months or so, that tragedy might be offset with two great arrivals: the return of the NFL, and Oktoberfest. If everybody is a little bit Irish on St. Patrick’s day (one of the holiest days on the Boozehound’s calendar), then dig out your daddy’s Lederhosen and find your inner German for this Fall equivalent that might be even better than its Irish cousin, if for no other reason than because it’s somewhere between 16 – 18 times as long a party. The history of Oktoberfest goes WAAAAAAY back to 1810. Crown Prince Ludwig of Bavaria was marrying his lady love, Princess Therese von Sachsen-Hildburghausen (their announcements in the local paper must have cost a fortune, paying by the letter and all.) Everything took longer back then (no Blackberries,) so the festivities started on October 12, and wrapped up on the 17th with a big horse race. The race took place on what is to this day known as der Theresienwiese, a lovely meadow just outside Munich named for the equally lovely bride. Today, it is often hipped up and shortened to simply “the Wiesen” (pronounced “VEE-zin” to us English- speakers.) Bavarians know a good party when they see it, and the event was offered again the next year, and the next… Finally, in 1819, the city of Munich took control of the festivities, and with only limited interruptions for little things like wars, the party continues to this day. A few things have changed since the good days of ol’ Prince Ludwig. First of all, since it gets pretty chilly in Munich by mid-October (despite that global warming hoax the HVAC industry lobbyists are throwing at us,) the festival was moved up to the last few weeks of September, always ending the first Sunday of October in honor of the name and original party. Secondly, six days was way too short – the modern Oktoberfest now goes a minimum of 16 days. As if that weren’t enough, German Unity Day is October 3rd – those wacky Bavarians will always extend the party until then if need be, making for an 18-day party some years. Otherwise, the premise is delightfully simple. On September 22, 2007, the lord mayor of Munich will tap the first keg of Oktoberfest beer in the Schottenhamel tent (no, the names haven’t gotten any shorter over the years.) After that, it’s go- time for the next 16 days. There are 14 “big tents” that are the centers of the party, and big doesn’t quite do them justice. The largest of the tents, Paulaner’s Winzerer Fähndl, seats a cozy 8,450 inside at last count, with another couple grand at tables outside. The other tents are all run by some of the biggest and oldest names in German beer – Hacker-Pschorr, Hoffbräu München, Spaten, Löwenbräu, and Augustiner – six breweries in total (with Paulaner.) One liter steins called Maß (pronounced “moss”) cost around 7.70 to 8.00 Euros this year, or $10.67 to $11.10 U.S. To soak up some of that deliciousness, local favorites like sausages, half-chickens, pretzels, cheese noodles, and roasted ox tails are all on the menu. Add to this lots of live music (and plenty of recorded John Denver; I’m not joking), rides, games… this is a must-see party on a global scale, my friends. In the U.S., any city, town, or Elks Lodge worth its salt honors this wonderful tradition as well, albeit often for something less than the 16 traditional days (I blame our Puritanical heritage.) As we approach the 22nd, find your closest celebration venue, crack open a good German beer (Heineken is not German, and if you said that to yourself just now, then you’ re on double-secret probation,) grab some Schnitzel, and party like its 1810. |
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